Today my family and I ventured out of our cozy confires to visit Dongdaemun Market.  We’d previously been to Insadong and Namdaemun, Seoul’s two most famous markets, but this was our first endeavor to Dongdaemun.  At first, we couldn’t find the market.  We exited the subway station immediately across from the gate at Dongdaemun (Dongdaemun is the eastern gate of old Seoul.  Namdaemun is the southern gate.)  It turns out that the market is actually a couple of blocks east of the gate next to Dongdaemun Stadium.  It was after lunchtime and we were hungry, so we decided to stop and eat at a nearby restaurant.  The restaurant’s food was delicious.  Called Gaelimjeong (계림정), the restaurant specializes in galbi and offers bulgogi and other standard Korean dishes.  We ordered bulgogi and galbi soup, and we enjoyed a variety of panchan (side dishes).  The bulgogi, cooked over a burner, cost 12,000 won per portion (about $12).

After lunch we head to the marketplace.  With my son astride my back in a travel carrier, we assumed the role of tourists as we mingled with locals.  We didn’t even try to blend in–it’s useless to even try unless you look remotely Korean.  We saw a few more foreigners than usual milling around the glitzy shopping malls south of the stadium.  A woman we met from Washington State was in Seoul on an exchange program with Yonsei University.  I have a suspicion that most foreigners who visit Dongdaemun are in Seoul on a semi-permanent basis.  My son was a hit with the teenage Korean girls, many of whom cooed happily as they passed.  "Hello baby!" many of them said, trying to pat his head or touch his hand.  I’m already worried that he will be a heartbreaker when he starts dating! 

We strolled through a couple of shopping malls and perused the merchandise at some of the booths.  These malls are different than what you typically find in the United States.  Although at first sight they appear to be a single department store, they are actually filled with small, booth-like stores hawking an assortment of goods.  It’s quite a bazaar feeling.  The booths are generally grouped by product.  For example, shoe stores are on one floor, while women’s clothing stores fill another floor.  I searched for neckties, but I was disappointed to find that the ties on sale were not even real ties.  They were actually faux ties with cloth straps that tie around the neck like an apron.  No thank you!  Nothing ruins a suit quite like wearing a cheap necktie.  I’m sure that I can find some good neckties in Korea, but not at Dongdaemun.  We did buy a small "Thomas the Tank Engine" backpack for my son.  My brilliant wife bartered the shop owner down 33% on the price of the backpack, and my son wore it proudly as we shopped.  My wife’s experience growing up in China gives her an edge when it comes to bargaining in Asia.  As for me, I assist by acting disinterested and chiming in that the item is too expensive.  It’s usually enough for us to get a great bargain.

In the afternoon, we crossed the street and visited the vendors’ stalls situated on the sidewalks outside Dongdaemun Stadium and the ballpark.  Dongdaemun Market is huge, filling several streets around the stadium.  It’s a huge montage selling everything ranging from practical to cheap.  I saw quite a few knock-off items for sale.  I chuckled when I saw the pile of "luxury" brand purses piled in a bargain bin.  I watched intently as Koreans enthusiastically gathered around many of the stalls and bargained for items.  It reminded me that I really am in Asia, as much as I sometimes feel like I am still in America.

Note to mars_wolf:  Thanks for reading and for your feedback.  I don’t know about Marco Polo, but we do like to travel.  I can’t even imagine what it must have been like for Marco Polo when he went from Italy to the Mongol court in Beijing.  Traveling today pales by comparison.


Books by MG EdwardsMG Edwards is a writer of books and stories in the thriller and science fiction-fantasy genres. He also writes travel adventures and children’s books. A former U.S. diplomat, he served in South Korea, Paraguay, and Zambia before leaving the Foreign Service to write full time.

Edwards is author of six books. His memoir, Kilimanjaro: One Man’s Quest to Go Over the Hill, was finalist for the Book of the Year Award and the Global eBook Award. He has published four children’s picture books in the World Adventurers for Kids Series: Alexander the Salamander; Ellie the Elephant; Zoe the Zebra; and a collection featuring all three stories. His book Real Dreams: Thirty Years of Short Stories is an anthology of 15 short stories.

Edwards lives in Taipei, Taiwan with his family. He has also lived in Austria, Singapore and Thailand. For more books or stories by M.G. Edwards, visit his web site at or contact him by e-mail at or on Twitter @m_g_edwards.

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1 Comment

  1. Roxie's Gravatar Roxie
    May 30, 2005    

    You travels sound like they are running smooth. I travel to another state here at home and have tons of mini disasters. It does sound exciting. Do you like the native food? Are they a lot saltier?

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