Off to Xi’an

I only have a few minutes today to tell you that I’ll be offline until next week.  We will be traveling to Xi’an, China, home to the famous terra cotta warriors, for a short two-day weekend trip.  While weekend trips in Korea feel like brief outings, our trip to Xi’an–about two hours away by plane from Shanghai–feels like a major undertaking.  I hope to have stories to share when I return.  I should be back online on Monday.

Last night my wife’s sister, her husband, my wife, son, and I went for Thai food at Banana Leaf, a trendy Shanghai restaurant.  The restaurant is very popular.  The food tasted undeniably like Chinese-style Thai food–save the peanut sauce.  I was appalled to discover that the restaurant could not serve Pad Thai because they ran out of key ingredients.  What?  You’ve got to be kidding.  A Thai restaurant isn’t Thai without Pad Thai, the national dish of Thailand.  We settled for Pad Siew instead.  I think my Chinese family members enjoyed the meal more than I did.  Afterwards, my brother-in-law and I went for a massage.  Not surprisingly, I am really sore today.  It’s been said that the best massages are the painful ones.  However, I think this one was a bit too painful.  My back is feeling the dull pain today.  It was more expensive than I thought it would be.  Oh well, I guess reality never lives up to your expectations.

Have a great weekend.  I’ll be back on Monday.

Xinjingshan

The Chinese call San Francisco, California “Jiujingshan,” or “Old Gold Mountain” in reference to the great California Gold Rush, when thousands of Chinese immigrated to the U.S. West Coast and sought their fortunes as gold miners.  The atmoshere in Shanghai today is so animated that one could call Shanghai “Xinjingshan,” or “New Gold Mountain.”  The most apt metaphor to describe the feeling here now is that of a “gold” rush where “gold” is the virtual accumulation of capital through booming economic growth.  So much money has been pumped into the local economy since 2001 by the government and foreign investment that the trickle-down effect in Shanghai truly is a torrent.  Real estate is the main currency changing hands, super-heating the local economy.  For example, peasants who once farmed land in suburban Shanghai sold off their farmland for urban development projects, earning a tidy sum that helped them buy new homes and farmland.  Retired workers with some money bought apartments and are now sitting on large capital gains.  Skilled workers have turned modest incomes into substantial real estate and investment portfolios.  Students who once turned to state-owned enterprises for jobs are now striking out on their own, hoping to get rich.  It is really quite amazing to see the changes here.  The changes in attitude that I wondered about when I visited Shanghai in 2002 have now begun to change at a rapid rate.  There are many have-nots, and the number of poor has risen dramatically in the new millennium.  However, for many Shanghainese, the recent development boom has very positive experience.

On Sunday I visited a gorgeous home located in suburban Shanghai.  Located about 15 kilometers from the city center, it is in one of many, many new suburban developments.  The new home cost about $350,000 for the lot and structure; the owner put many more thousands of dollars into the interior (in China, new home are unfinished, and the new owner must contract with interior design companies and construction firms to finish the interiors).  The house is located in an exclusive gated community.  The backyard fronts a canal formerly used as an irrigation waterway.  This community is much like any upscale American community and is one of hundreds recently developed or now under development in and around Shanghai.  I wondered who could afford all these new homes.  After all, the real estate market in Shanghai appears to be valued on par with that of Phoenix, Arizona, while the median per capita income of Chinese is less than 1/20 of Americans.  While Shanghainese are among the wealthiest in China, the median per capita income is still far below that of Americans.  So how can they buy these expensive homes?

The answer to this perplexing question is that increasing real estate values and entrepreneurial drive of Shanghainese has led to a dramatic increase in personal wealth over a very short period of time.  For many Shanghainese, the boom has led to instant wealth augmented by purchases of real estate and the accelerated appreciation of home and land values.  Locals who bought homes worth $50,000 in 1999 now live in $250,000 homes, and those who were smart enough to sell a $250,000 home in 2000 and buy two $125,000 homes now have two $300,000 homes.  Those who engage in home or business leasing have done even better.  While this is amazing and a mostly positive development for China, it leads me to wonder whether Shanghai–and China–face the possibility of economic bust in the next decade.  It is very difficult to sustain such high rates of economic growth and a real estate boom without eventual downturns–even recessions.  If and when a downturn happens, it does not bode well for an area like Shanghai now highly dependent on continued aggressive economic growth.

 

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Greetings from Shanghai

Greetings from Shanghai!  We arrived without incident on Saturday morning.  My wife’s family picked us up at the airport and took us to their home in a van.  We spent several hours at their place eating lunch, catching up with family, and eating dinner (eating is a perpetual activity in China).  Easter morning was quiet.  We did not have a church to attend in China, marking the first time I’ve ever missed church on Easter Sunday.  It’s something I always make a point to do, but this time we did not have a church home to attend.  A friend’s friend we tried to connect with could not attend on Sunday morning because she had to work and planned to attend on another day.  It’s hard to find a good church home in a place like Shanghai, especially when you’ve just arrived.  Instead, we spent a quiet morning by ourselves reflecting on the meaning of Easter.  Dear Reader, I hope you also had a good, peaceful Easter weekend.

Yesterday afternoon I went with family and friends to visit Thames Town.  It was fabulous as expected, although it is quite far from town.  It truly does feel like a quaint part of England nestled in China.  The town is under construction and not quite yet open for business.  Land use about 1/4 commercial and 3/4 residential.  The town features a small cathedral and two college campuses as well as a variety of small shops and domiciles.  A British firm is in charge of engineering Thames Town, and I think they’ve done a good job at building an authentic-looking place.  There appear to be covenants in place requiring that the store owners and residents retain the look and feel of the town.  It may seem odd to visit Thames Town, but after seeing it featured on CNN.com, I couldn’t resist traveling to such an intriguing place.  I’ve seen many of Shanghai’s most popular sites on previous visits, so I wanted to see something entirely new.  Tomorrow night we will visit Xintiandi, another new entertainment, mixed-use area in Shanghai with a traditional Chinese theme.  I hear that it’s one of the new hot spots in Shanghai.  I probably won’t have time to visit any of the other eight new internationally-themed areas, including German Town, Czech Town, and Norway Town.  Thames Town is it for now.  Perhaps I’ll see them on my next tour.

 

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