Change of Scenery

Dear Reader, I anticipate that I won’t have time to blog tomorrow night, and I’ll be preoccupied in Shanghai with family over the weekend.  This may be my last entry for a few days.  I will write again early next week, perhaps sooner.  In the meantime, I’ll leave you with some general thoughts on China and musings about changes transforming this immense and fascinating place.  Having married into a Chinese family, I am far more intimated to Chinese culture than Korean culture.  Traveling to China is like meeting up with a long-time friend, and I’m looking forward to visiting the Middle Kingdom again.

This will be my fourth trip to China in 12 years.  I’ve seen some remarkable changes in this amazing country since my first trip in 1994, and I expect that China will have changed even more since my last visit in 2002.  It is perhaps the most dynamic place on earth at the moment, and our destination, Shanghai, is the epicenter.  I am looking forward to seeing not only the architectural changes that have revolutionized and modernized the city but also changes in the mindset of its residents.

When I first visited China in 1994, Shanghai had just begun its current push to become the economic center of East Asia.  The Pearl of the Orient Tower was one of the few buildings standing in Pudong New City, a new commercial development situated across from the Bund, the downtown waterfront and former British concession.  By 2002, Pudong had been largely developed.  Despite the city’s architectural transformation, during my 2002 visit, I noted that Shanghai residents remained somewhat parochial and lacked the cosmopolitan paradigm of peer cities such as London and New York.  During my upcoming visit, I plan to observe how attitudes have changed in China over the past four years.  Chinese have always been a proud people, but what is new in Chinese minds’ is a sense of destiny, that China will reclaim its position as the center of the known world.  Until the 1700’s, China was the strongest, most powerful realm in Asia.  It is on its way to becoming so again.  What remains to be seen is whether the Chinese can channel its newfound enthusiasm and energy into becoming a place that is fully integrated with the rest of the world.  It may with time.  This is not intended to upset ethnic Chinese who might read this–it is a realistic assessment of a nation that is moving so rapidly into modernity that it cannot possibly mature until it slows down.

We have several activities planned during our visit.  On Saturday we arrive in Shanghai and will be met by family at Pudong International Airport.  I wanted to take the high-speed Maglev train from the airport to downtown, but the family would rather pick us up by car (high-speed train and private automobiles–yet another change in China since the 1990’s).  On Saturday evening we have a dinner planned with family.  Sunday is Easter.  We have a friend who will take us to church (yet another change since the Cultural Revolution–the spread Christianity has spread dramatically since the start of economic reform period of the 1980’s.  Then, as mentioned earlier, we will visit Thames Town on Sunday afternoon (a very recent change–suburban, planned communities).  On Monday I will go to work at an office in a large mall.  I never would have thought that one day I would be working in a mall in China.  The changes are absolutely amazing.

 

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Pre-China Trip Clutter

Much as I try, life always seems too cluttered.  I sit here tonight typing amidst a pile of things to do to prepare for our trip to Shanghai, China on Saturday.  Every time life seems to cool down, it suddenly shifts into high gear and becomes too hectic.  One of these days I would really like to jump off this crazy merry-go-round.  My new mantra is “Vive el Paraguay!”  I’ve heard that Paraguay, my next assigned location, offers a much slower pace of life than Korea does.  As my predecessor told me by e-mail (we’ve been in contact), “bring lots of reading material [to Paraguay].”  Somehow I wish that were true.  I’ll believe it when it happens, after I’ve made it through four books in four weeks.  I’m sure I will somehow find a way to make myself too busy to chill out–even in Paraguay.  It’s in my nature to do more than I have time to do.

I am really looking forward my first trip outside Korea since I arrived early last year.  First I have to wade through annoying trip planning.  Perhaps the worst part of any trip is the advance planning and preparation.  It’s more than suitcase packing.  It’s the little things like making sure your medical insurance covers you in exotic locations and putting together a photo album for the family back home.  It’s the plane tickets, passports, visas, bill paying, activity planning, transportation arrangements, electricity conversion, emergency planning, cash reserves build up, closure at work, fridge emptying–you name it.  Anyone who’s planned a multi-week trip away from home can relate to the grind of pre-trip planning and preparation.

China isn’t actually going to be a vacation for me.  I will work in Shanghai for about two weeks while my family is on vacation.  Fortunately, I can take time out on the weekends to have some fun.  On Sunday I will visit Thames Town, a new, unbelievable development reminiscent of Merry Ol’ England located in the suburbs of Shanghai.  The following weekend my wife, son, and I will take a short trip to Xi’an, home to the famous terracotta warriors.  As we have spent most of our time in the eastern half of China, I’m looking forward to seeing the Chinese Interior for the first time.  I don’t know how much time I will have to write during my journey in China, but I will post as frequently as I can.  Photos will follow when I return to Korea.

Xin Nian Kuai Le!

Happy Chinese New Year!  It’s also Seol-nal, or Korean New Year.  Both holidays are based on the lunar calendar.  This year is the Year of the Dog in the Chinese Zodiac, the 7th year in the current 60-year cycle.  As a Dog, I’m happy that my year has come once again.  However, I am also reminded that I’m getting older and heading rapidly towards the realm of Tol, or the age of wisdom, as the Koreans politely call one’s 60th birthday.  You know you are old…err, wise, after you complete five Zodiac cycles.  Celebrations across China today were very festive, with the Chinese incinerating over $124 million in fireworks across the country (talk about money going up in smoke!).  Sales of dogs as pets noticeably increased in China with the advent of the Year of the Dog, with many people giving them away as new year’s gifts to families and friends.  Here in Korea, the celebrations seem to be a bit more muted than in China.  While families in both countries gather from far and wide to celebrate the new year, Chinese are much more apt to celebrate the occasion with noise makers.

 

I wondered what year it is this year according to the Chinese calendar.  After all, the year itself (e.g. 2006), plays an integral part in the Western (solar) New Year.  Most Asians cannot tell you what year it is according to the lunar calendar, and if they can, their answer tends to vary.  A quick online search announced that this year is 4637, 4697, 4703, and 4704 according to the Chinese calendar  Here’s an interesting explanation from Helmer Aslaksen, a Norwegian scholar who teaches at the National University of Singapore, as to why it’s impossible to accurately determine the correct year according to the Chinese calendar.

I get a lot of e-mail about the Chinese calendar. I once got an e-mail from a greeting cards company who needed to know which year 2000 would be in the Chinese calendar. The answer is that the Chinese do not have a continuous year count. They started counting from one again with each new emperor. However, some scholars tried to reconstruct ancient Chinese chronology by adding up years of reigns, much the same way some westerners in the past tried to reconstruct Biblical chronology. Some claim that the calendar was invented by the Yellow Emperor,Huángdì (黄帝)), in 2637 BCE in the 61st year of his reign. However, others prefer to start the count with the first year of his reign in 2697 BCE. Since these years are 60 years apart, it follows that 1984 was the first year of either the 78th or 79th 60-year cycle. Using this as a starting point, Chinese New Year in 2000 marks the beginning of the Chinese year 4637 or 4697. To give you an example of the level of confusion on this point, in Chapter 3 of Volume III of the translation of the Shoo King (Shūjīng, 书经) by James Legge, he refers to the current year, 1863, as being in the 76th cycle, implying a starting point of 2697 BCE. However, the book has an appendix on Chinese astronomy, written by John Chalmers, where the starting point is taken to be 2637 BCE! Chalmers actually writes 2636 BCE, but that really mean -2636, using the astronomical year count, where 1 BCE is year 0, 2 BCE is -1, etc. This is fairly typical of the level of confusion about the continuous year count in the Chinese calendar, and simply illustrates the fact that the continuous year count is not an integral part of the Chinese calendar, but rather an afterthought. While there isolated incidents of Chinese scholars who have used it, it only gained popularity with the Jesuit missionaries. Most of the people who use it are Westerners who refuse to believe that it is possible to have a “civilized” society without a linear, continuous year count. That’s why I told the greeting cards company to stick with calling it the year of the Dragon!

To add to the confusion, some authors use an epoch of 2698 BCE. I believe this because they want to use a year 0 as the starting point, rather than counting 2697 BCE as year 1, or that they assume that the Yellow Emperor started his year with the Winter solstice of 2698 BCE. In particular, this system was used by Sun Yat-sen (孫逸仙, Sūn Yìxiān or 孫中山, Sūn Zhōngshān, 1866–1925). He and other political activists wanted to use a republican and “modern” year numbering system. This system actually won some acceptance in the overseas Chinese community, and is for example used occasionally in San Francisco’s Chinatown. (At least around the time of Chinese New Year!)

However, let me stress again that using an epoch is not the traditional way of counting years in Chinese history. The traditional way was to use emperor’s era name (年号 [年號], nían hào) together with the 60-year cycle. In the past, the emperor would often change his era name during his reign, but by the time of the Míng and Qíng dynasties, the emperors would use the same era name for their whole reign. This system worked well most of the time, but the Kāngxī Emperor (康熙) ruled more than 60 years. He ruled from February 7, 1661 to December 20, 1722. Since Chinese New Year fell on January 30 in 1661, the first year of his reign started on February 18, 1662, and the last year of his reign ended on February 4, 1723. Since both 1662 and 1722 are rényín years, the term Kāngxī rényín (康熙壬寅) is ambiguous. However, this is the only such problem in Chinese history. His grandson, the Qiánlóng Emperor (乾隆) ruled from October 18, 1735, to February 8, 1796. The first year of his rule started on February 12, 1736, but he chose to retire on February 8, 1796, as a filial act in order not to reign longer than his grandfather, the illustrious Kāngxī Emperor. Despite his retirement, however, he retained ultimate power until his death in 1799.

It is well known that the 60-year cycle was introduced during the Hàn Dynasty, so it came as something of a surprise when scholars realized that the 60-day cycle had been in use in the Shāng Dynasty (商朝, 1600–1046 BCE). This shows that the two systems are independent, and there is no point looking for an ancient origin with a (,) day in a (,) month in a (,) year in either 2637 BCE or 2697 BCE. I should also point out, that while Chinese chronology is fairly reliable going back to 841 BCE, and oracle bones with date inscription go back to the 13th century BCE, modern scholars consider the Yellow Emperor to be a mythological figure. So this whole discussion of ancient dates is just a curiosity.

This concept sounds so foreign to a western thinker.  How can one call it a new year and not know what year it is?  This shows yet again how basic ideas can be challenged or seen in a very different light depending on one’s cultural orientation.  Asians might ask, Why is it important to know what year it is?  A Westerner might answer, Well, because it’s the way we do it.  There is a simple explanation as to why the year is not important in the Chinese (or Korean) calendar, when it’s central to the Western calendar.  The Chinese calendar is lunar, and the beginning and ending of lunar cycles are fixed.  The number of days in a Chinese year varies from year to year, but the number of full moons and lunar cycles per year is fixed.  The Western calendar is a solar calendar based on the number of days.  Hence, years are calculated by the number of days, and a fixed year can be determined.  Although the number of lunar cycles in the Chinese calendar is fixed, the number of days is variable, making it difficult to determine the correct number of days according to the lunar calendar.

Still, it should be possible for scholars to determine the number of lunar cycles in the Chinese calendar and determine which lunar cycle we are currently celebrating.  Are we celebrating the 78th or 79th lunar cycle?  We don’t really know.  It depends on when the first lunar cycle began.  It seems most logical to me that that would be at the start of the reign of the Yellow Emperor, China’s first emperor, in 2697 B.C.  That would indicate that we are in the midst of the 79th lunar cycle.  That would indicate that this year is year 4704 according to the solar calendar.  Because there are other variables involved, it’s an exercise in futility to precisely determine a date.  Nevertheless, as a westerner, it’s nice to know what year we’re celebrating!  An Asian would answer, It’s the Year of the Dog, of course!  Quit worrying about the date.

 

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