Top Ten Things to See in Zambia

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I’ve done this list for Korea.  Almost two years into our tour in Zambia I finally found the inspiration to put together a “top ten” list of things to see in Zambia.  These are by no means a scientifically random sample or a results of a public opinion poll; they are my own choices based on my own biased preferences I think will give you a good taste of Zambia.  Many of them I have visited or done myself; some I included based on their reputation as a tourist destination.  Here they are:

  1. Victoria Falls (Zambia/Zimbabwe):  I’ve been to arguably the world’s largest waterfalls several times, and they never cease to amaze me.   These are by far Zambia’s biggest drawing card.  Many tourists will take a detour from South Africa to do an overnight trip to the Falls and in nearby Livingstone, Zambia or the town of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.  The falls are spectacular from both the Zambian and Zimbabwean sides; more of the upper falls is in Zambia and the lower portion with better views in Zim.  There are several good hotels; the high-end (and expensive) Victoria Falls Hotel on the Zim side and Royal Livingstone Hotel or Zambezi Sun on the Zambia side are your best bets.  The best time to see the falls is between July and September.  In February-March the falls are a wall of mist, and they’re nearly dry in November and December.  I especially enjoyed visiting in November when the falls were at their lowest.  That’s when the catch basin looks like the Grand Canyon.  Swimming in the famous Devil’s Pool next to Livingstone Island beside a 105 meter drop is an experience of a lifetime you can only do in November.  If you’re an adventurous sort, there’s also bungy jumping or zip lining from the Victoria Falls Bridge and whitewater rafting in some unruly rapids.
  2. South Luangwa National Park:  This is one of several national parks in Zambia and by far the most famous.  It features the most wildlife of any game park in the country.  It’s either a short flight or a 10-hour drive from Lusaka; flying is more convenient but expensive.  The game drives are fabulous.  For high-end lodging, stay at the Chichele Lodge, the presidential retreat of former president Kenneth Kaunda (1964-91), or at award-winning Mfuwe Lodge inside the park.  There are numerous less expensive lodges and bush camps in the area.
  3. Lower Zambezi River:  The lower Zambezi River basin is a short drive south of Lusaka and a great place for a long weekend getaway.  There are several lodges in the Chirindu and Chiawa areas near the confluence of the Zambezi and Kafue Rivers.  Great for bush camp excursions, safaris, hunting, fishing and boat cruises.
  4. Lake Tanganika/Kasaba Bay:  Kasaba Bay on Lake Tanganika in Northern Province is currently under development as a major tourist destination.  Once completed in the next decade, it will feature several resorts on the shores of one of Africa’s major Rift lakes.  For now you have to drive through Mporokoso or fly into Kasama and do a car hire, but once completed you’ll be able to fly there directly from Lusaka.  Northern Province is one of Zambia’s most beautiful provinces with several large waterfalls overshadowed by Victoria Falls.
  5. Kuomboka Traditional Ceremony:   Each year the Lozi tribe holds its annual Kuomboka ceremony marking the end of the rainy season.  The date varies with the end of the season (this year it’s scheduled for April 16).  Held in Limilunga, Western Province, at the Barotse king’s palace, it is arguably the country’s most famous traditional ceremony and a great example of traditional culture in Zambia.  The gift shop at the Barotse Royal Museum has some great local crafts for sale.  With recent unrest in Western Province, ask ahead if you’re thinking about attending this year’s ceremony.
  6. Liuwa Plains Wildebeest Migration:  One of the world’s largest animal migrations passes each November through remote Liuwa Plains National Park in Western Province.  Thousands of migrating wildebeest and head back toward Namibia.  A word of caution – the park is remote, and the roads are very sandy and difficult to navigate even with a 4×4.  It’s advisable to visit with an organized tour operator or in a caravan.
  7. Saturday Dutch Market:  Every last Saturday of the month, Zambia’s largest open-air food and crafts market sets up shop at the Dutch Reformed Church in the Kabulonga area of Lusaka.  Artisans from Zambia and neighboring countries bring their crafts to you.  It’s one of the few places where you can find Zimbabwean soap stone sold beside Zambian copper plates.  If you miss this market, try the smaller Sunday market at the Arcades Shopping Centre in Lusaka that happens weekly.  Be sure to bargain – I found that vendors will reduce prices as low as 40 percent of their original quote.
  8. Kasanka Bat Migration:  Each October the world’s largest migration of giant fruit bats occurs at Kasanka National Park in Northern Province.  You’ll go batty with excitement or fear from the approximately eight million bats that swarm harmlessly above you.
  9. Visit a compound:  Most urban Zambians live in poor neighborhoods known as “compounds.”  Ask a local you trust to take you during the day to one of the safer compounds in Lusaka to buy a carton of Shake-Shake chibuku (fermented corn meal) at the local pub.  Two of the largest and safer compounds in Lusaka are the Bauleni Compound on Leopard’s Hill Road and Kalingalinga Compound off Alick Nkhata Road.  Walk around and savor the fascinating flavor of local Zambian life.
  10. Lake Kariba:  Spend a weekend on the world’s largest artificial lake.  Stay in the town of Siavonga for a nice relaxing getaway.  Take a boat cruise and visit the Lake Kariba dam; dine on local crayfish.  I posted an article about our recent trip to Lake Kariba in February.

Zambia Map

Weekend at Lake Kariba, Zambia

My wife and I went on a short Valentine’s Day weekend getaway to Lake Kariba.  What an incredible not-so-hidden gem!  Few tourists have ever heard of the world’s largest artificial lake and reservoir straddling the Zambian-Zimbabwean border created in 1958 when the Kariba Dam on the Zambezi River was near completion.  Lake Kariba is usually overshadowed on visitors’ itineraries by Victoria Falls, arguably the world’s largest waterfall, as well as by numerous game parks and private reserves scattered throughout Zambia and Zimbabwe.  We think that Lake Kariba holds its own as a tourist destination.

Hippos, crocodiles, baboons, freshwater fish, and several bird species call the lake home, although they make fewer appearances than one would expect for such a large body of water. The wildlife that attracts gawking tourists to Zambia is concentrated further east in the game parks of the lower Zambezi Basin.  However, the lake does not lack for vegetation and scenic beauty.  Compatriots frequently say “don’t swim in the water!” when lake comes up as a travel destination because it’s a breeding ground for bilharzia (schistosomiasis) and lurking crocodiles.  Avoiding the water notwithstanding, Lake Kariba is well worth a visit, especially if you want to enjoy a quiet or romantic getaway with beautiful scenic lake views and a relatively safe natural environment.  While the lake offers few children’s activities, families can still enjoy all it has to offer.  However, don’t forget to remind the kids to bring some books or games they can enjoy.

We stayed at the aging Lake Kariba Inns, one of the nicer resorts in the town of Siavonga that passes as a three-star hotel.  At just over U.S. $100 per night during the offseason, the price was very reasonable compared to some of the overpriced game lodges that charge upwards of $400 per night.  The rooms are clean and comfortable, although like many rural Zambian lodges they are still infested with their fair share of unwanted critters.  The ants will carry off any food in sight, so keep it sealed.  The villas with lakefront verandas are your best bet for gorgeous views of the lake.  You might delude yourself into thinking that you’re in the Mediterranean as you lounge on your veranda; that is until fishermen pass by in their large trawlers to ply on crayfish and fish.  The resort’s amenities include a large workout gym and a poolside bar with pool table and ping pong.  The waterfront restaurant serves decent food with a decidedly Indian flavor; the Indian yogurt-based dishes are tasty.  We were disappointed that the inn had run out of crayfish, a local specialty.  The inn also has conference facilities that can accommodate groups of 100 or more.  Its Achilles’ heel is its customer service.  Some staff members are helpful while others are not, and when the buffet is being served it’s virtually impossible to get room service.

Lake Kariba Inns sits atop one of the promontories overlooking Siavonga with its private harbor ringed with boats ready to take you on an affordable two-hour lake cruise to the top of the dam and some of the manmade islands.  The lake cruise is well worth the money.  Disembark in the late afternoon an hour before sundown so that you can bask in the glow of the sunset on the shore of Sampa Karuma Island or another deserted islet on the Zimbabwe side of the lake (no visa needed).  When cruising the lake, check the weather conditions beforehand for signs of rain or heavy winds.  Although we had calm weather for most of our boat trip, the waves kicked up after sunset, and we held on as the boat rocked its way back to shore.

A number of other lodges are located in and around Siavonga.  Lake Safari Lodge, Eagle’s Rest, and Sandy Beach are also popular lodging options.  We didn’t visit any of them but were under the impression that they were comparable to Lake Kariba Inns.  For those who want to see the lake up close and personal, Protea Hotels recently launched (literally) the Southern Belle, a grand-old steamboat that operated in Lake Kariba for years before it was refurbished into a floating resort.

The lake cruise does not include a tour of Kariba Dam; to do that, drive to the Zimbabwean border (about 8 kilometers from Siavonga), park at the border post, and ask Zambian Immigration for a gate pass.  You can walk from there for good views below the dam; the gate pass will let you reenter Zambia.  The dam’s spillway usually opens fully in early February, allowing water building up from the rainy season to pass down the lower Zambezi River.  While not as spectacular as Victoria Falls, the dam is still worth a visit.  Constructed between 1955 and 1959 by an Italian company, the dam is being expanded by a Chinese firm.

The town of Siavonga extends for several kilometers in each direction along the lakefront.  The hilly terrain is ideal for short walks and hikes.  Lake Kariba Inns has a beach walk that follows the lake as well as a game walk with few signs of wildlife but great vistas high above the lake.  The streets of Siavonga are a great place to explore on foot.  We were told that the area is very safe; however, it’s important to be cognizant of safety if you choose to walk around town.

If you enjoy the outdoors but aren’t in the mood to head to the bush, or you’re looking for a great affordable weekend getaway, check out what Lake Kariba has to offer.

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Trees in Bloom

Zambia is beautiful this time of year.  The jacarandas and other flowering trees have started to bloom in vivid colors around the country.  Most of their flowers are a soft lavender, while a few are brilliant red or yellow.  The latter spring from other species of tree.

The jacarandas are similar to the ones we saw when we lived in Paraguay.  Known as lapachos in Spanish, the jacarandas in South Africa bloom with lavender, orange, and yellow flowers.  Their flowers’ lifespan is mere weeks, after which the petals fall and blanket the ground like a royal carpet.  Even one who is not fond of flowers can’t help but admire its beauty.

The flowering trees bloom at the end of the dry season when the weather heats up just before the monsoon-like rains set in as if God were commanding the trees to bear fruit before the rains wash it all away.  Once pollinated, the flowers produce seeds that fall to the ground and wait for water from the rains to spark new life.  Whatever the biological reasons behind this phenomenon, the cacophony of colors that spring forth from the trees is a wonder to behold.

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