Articles by mgedwards

Greetings from Haeundae!

I’m writing you in the business center at the lovely 5-star Paradise Hotel in Haeundae, Korea.  I’m about 14 kilometers from Pusan.  I was happy to find out the hotel that has free Internet access so I can post at least a short blog entry today.  The hotel is very nice.  It sits on the waterfront overlooking Korea’s most popular beach.  During the summer, up to 90,000 visitors a day flock to Haeundae to enjoy the beach.  It isn’t quite Waikiki, Hawaii, but Haeundae is definitel a nice resort town.  I’m glad that it’s fall now, because I can enjoy the town and the beach in relative peace and quiet.  In mid-November, this place will change dramatically as Haeundae hosts the upcoming APEC Summit.  In fact, today the power went off several times at the hotel as engineers ran test power outages in advance of the APEC Summit.
 
I came down here for work.  I will help Americans for a couple of days before returning to Seoul.  My family is coming along for the ride.  I could not have asked for a better job assignment.  I wanted to come down to help out with APEC Summit preparations, but it was not meant to be.  I’m more than happy to settle for this assignment, because I hear that those who will be involved with APEC will be scrounging around for places to sleep.  My room is comfortable with a gorgeous view of the beach and the East Sea (a.k.a. Sea of Japan).  Sometimes this job is so tough.  Someone has to do it!  🙂
 
My wife and son arrive soon.  They are taking the KTX train to Pusan like I did yesterday.  My son is absolutely fascinated by trains, and his appetite for all things "Thomas" (Thomas the Tank Engine) is insatiable.  Riding the KTX train will be a joy for him, at least for part of the trip.  I hope he gets a window seat so he can see the Korean countryside.  One of his favorite "Thomas the Tank Engine" characters is Spencer, the sleek, modern silver train owned by the Duke and Duchess.  We told my son before the trip that he will ride on Spencer to see daddy, and he grew very excited.  The trip is short–about 2.5 hours–so it should keep him preoccupied for awhile.  I hope his mom was able to manage him without consternation! 
 
I will try to write again tomorrow about Pusan.  From what I have seen, it’s a beautiful city hugging the coastline and cradling the mountains inside the city limits.  It’s one of the world’s largest seaports, and it has a great seaport atmosphere.  If you visit Korea and have time, take a journey out of Seoul on the KTX and visit Pusan.

A husband-wife team teams up

My wife is putting our son to bed, so I have a little time tonight to tell you about our anniversary celebration today.  Again, thanks to everyone who posted an anniversary suggestion.  You gave me some great ideas for future anniversary celebrations.  This year we did not buy each other any gifts.  Instead, we gave each other the gift of time.  I took the day off, and we left our son with the nanny for the day and ventured out to celebrate our anniversary as a couple.  We went hiking at Bukhansan National Park located just north of Seoul.  When I told my boss that we were going hiking for our anniiversary, he thought the idea was a bit odd.  Perhaps so, but then again, we aren’t a conventional couple.  Hiking is one of our favorite joys in life.  We love to travel and hike wherever we go.  Our all-time favorite "hike" was Cinque Terre, Italy, followed by Maui, Hawaii.  (Cinque Terre is a group of traditional Italian villages about an hour north of Pisa along the Meditteranean Sea.  If you have ever been to Cinque Terre, you will probably agree that it is truly breathtaking.)  I posted photos of both our Bukhansan National Park and Myeongdong trip in the photos section.  A reader mentioned that I should post more photos of Koreans, so I tried to take more photos with people this time.  People are key to understanding any culture. 
 
We left home at about 11 a.m. this morning.  We took the subway to Dobongsan Station on Line 1 and Line 7.  Dobongsan is situated in the far northern reaches of Seoul and borders the north end of Bukhansan National Park.  A mere 78 square kilometers, according to Lonely Planet, Bukhansan is a gem a place in greater Seoul.  The park’s granite peaks are beautiful, and the park is just a 40-minute subway ride from downtown Seoul.  Lonely Planet offered far too few details about the park in its Korea guidebook.  The book mentioned Dobongsan in just one sentence, highlighting a glaring shortcoming of the world’s most famous guidebook.  Lonely Planet is great for backpacking, short-term tourists, and those on a shoestring budget, but I find that Lonely Planet guides lack depth and do not meet the expectations of expatriates.  Anyway, my wife and I walked about 15 minutes from the station to the park entrance.  The entrance located at the end of the first street to the left of the station.  The park entrance is surrounded by dozens of restaurants and hiking equipment/clothing stores.  Bodongsan features a number of tofu restaurants, seafood restaurants, beer tents, and REI-style shops.  It’s a great place for hikers to go before or after their hike in the park.
 
We decided beforehand not to overly exert ourselves hiking.  He haven’t hiked for awhile, and today is a weekday.  We will head to Pusan soon and need to save our energy.  The hike began easily enough; the paved and cobblestone path gradually ascended into the park next to a beautiful stream with cascading waterfalls.  Along the way, we passed a Buddhist temple and saw Koreans relaxing near the stream.  Equipment vendors hawked outdoor gear and Buddhist paraphenelia, and a saxophonist played a pretty song that wafted through the valley.  The weather was beautiful again today, making the hike a pleasant one.  We hiked along the stream for about half an hour.  When the pavement ended and the natural path began, it split into two branches.  We took the left branch and headed towards Ulum Rock.  The ascent was relatively steep, perhaps a three out of five on the hiker’s scale.  The path was well worn and friendly.  We made it to the apex of the loop path we hiked and took photos of the mountains and the Seoul cityscape.  We then descended and arrived back at the park entrance about an hour later.  We did not try to hike up to Ulum Rock today.  Korean hikers told us we had the wrong kinds of shoes.  (I wore Teva sandals, and my wife wore casual shoes.  Koreans are quick to notice footwear.  When I was in Seoraksan, a man on the mountain wearing dress shoes told me my Teva sandals were inadequate for hiking.  I laughed to myself.)  Our anniversary journey in Bukhansan National Park lasted about three hours.  Upon returning to the park entrance, we rested at an outdoor cafe. 
 
Later, we took the subway to Myeongdong, a famous shopping district in Seoul.  It is trendy and happening, one of many places in Seoul where Korean youths rule.  We ate our anniversary dinner at The Taj, a delicious Indian restaurant.  We also shopped a bit, and I observed the throngs of people in Myeongdong.  I saw very few foreigners, perhaps a handful, at either Bukhansan or Myeongdong.  I wore a Hawaiian shirt today, and I was a very obvious misfit in both locales.  The Koreans at Dobongsan generally wore hiking gear that left the impression that they are avid hikers.  None wore sandals and a shirt like I did.  In Myeongdong, trendy Koreans wore the latest fashions.  Hawaiian shirts are not in style, apparently!  I was a bit surprised to find that even in trendy Myeongdong, there are barbershops that offer "other" services.  In Korea, one barbershop pole indicates you can get a haircut and a platonic massage.  A double barbershop pole means that for an additional price you can receive sexual services (see photos in Myeongdong album).  Barbershops and karaoke establishments are everywhere in Korea, and some are fronts for illicit services.  It is one of the aspects of Korean society that most folks here know about but rarely discuss.
 
My wife and I make a great team.  We complement one another well.  She tends to be strong where I am weak, and vice versa.  Today’s anniversary journey was a test of our ability to work as a team.  My wife suggested hiking at Bukhansan, and I located Dobongsan and guided us there.  We helped each other all along the hike.  For example, we saw the Korean word "bong" everywhere and wondered what it meant.  I saw a map and guessed that it meant "peak," and she corroborated that assumption by pointing out that "bong" is related to the Chinese word for "peak," or "feng."  We are a great team, and I’m glad that we have been a team that has lasted for better or for worse, richer and poorer, through sickness and health.

An observation

I am at work tonight, wrapping up some important projects before I take the day off tomorrow.  As it is my anniversary, I probably will not write a blog entry tomorrow (if I do, I better give my wife a good reason).  In fact, I could be offline for the next few days.  Tomorrow my wife and I will go hiking, and we will have dinner at Bonasera Italian Restaurant in Gangnam, which I hear is highly recommended by the Italian Embassy (you can’t beat a recommendation like that).  On Wednesday, I will start the day at work, say goodbye to a coworker who is retiring after 20 years of service, and then I’ll hit the road with another coworker.  We’ll head to Daegu via KTX train to visit a couple of Americans in the afternoon, and then we’ll travel to Pusan to assist Americans on Thursday and Friday.  It’s my first trip to Pusan, and I’m looking forward to it.  My family will join me on Thursday evening, and we will tour Pusan together on Saturday before heading home.  Although Korea is a very wired country, I do not know how much time or opportunity I will have to go online and update this blog.  I will definitely be back online to update World Adventurers by Saturday evening, though.  All commentators need to take a break now and then, right?  One of these days I’ll invite a special guest or sidekick to write for me.  Perhaps my cousin and ever faithful blog reader, Wade3016, will fill in for me.  He’s been quiet here lately, but I’m sure with a mere mention of his name he will post a comment.  His interests are a little different than mine, but he is very entertaining.
 
So, Dear Reader, until I can write again, I leave you with this observation:
 
As I drove to work tonight around 9 p.m., I saw a schoolgirl waiting at an intersection in downtown Seoul.  Dressed in her school uniform, she was alone, not at all like the multitudes of schoolgirls I saw today wandering the streets at about 3:30 p.m.  She carried a book bag.  She looked tired.  She could not have been older than 12 years old.  To a Korean, she is considered diligent.  She probably finished up her English lesson at the hagwon (학원), a Korean term for a private, evening English language institute.  She will probably head home via the subway to her family’s apartment somewhere in Seoul and will study at home for another two or three hours.  Around midnight, she may head to bed, or she might stay up later and study some more.  Either way, four hours after going to bed, she will probably get up again to start another school day.  Upon seeing this girl, an American would ask questions.  Why is this girl walking downtown in a big city alone at night?  Why does she have to study so long and so hard?  Isn’t private tutoring expensive?  Why are her parents allowing this or forcing her to do this?  Isn’t it dangerous?  How can any kid sleep four hours every night and survive? 
 
This girl reminded me of how different Korean culture can be from American culture.  While I understand the Korean desire to educate children, I never want my son to have to come home alone after 9 p.m. after a long day at the hagwon.  I hope he will be successful, but I could never drive him to such excess for the sake of success.  Korean children are brilliant, but I think the Korean education system is very hard on Korean children.