Zambian Critters

This is an updated version of an earlier article.

Africa has more than its fair share of wildlife.  Not many large animals — the kind you would typically think of in Africa like lions, elephants and giraffes — range in urban areas except on private game reserves.  The critters that hang out near our house are of a smaller variety.  An occasional oversized snake (poisonous or not) slithers its way on to our property until it’s dispatched by someone, but for the most part the critters who hang around the neighborhood are small reptiles, amphibians, insects, and arachnids.

We have small lizards and geckos.  They’re cute, multicolored, and absolutely harmless.

Mosquitoes, spiders, ants, termites and other pests are omnipresent.  They usually multiply at the end of the dry season and beginning of the rainy season (September – January).

First come the “flatties” – harmless spiders that can grow as large as three inches wide with a very flat profile.  Their abdomens grow so plump that they almost look like small crabs.  Flatties look menacing but are too lazy to be threatening.  I have yet to see one catch an insect — night or day.  Like a disinterested cat, they usually lounge on the walls as if waiting casually for something to stray their way.  I was startled this morning by a flattie squatting on the side of our computer desk.  It must have been 2.5 inches wide with a 3/4-inch abdomen.  She blended in well with the wood work.

Other insects are more of a nuisance and even threatening.  The ants in this part of the world are diverse and imposing, from tiny yellow or brown sugar ants attracted to unprotected food to large half-inch army ants.  One night I saw a stream of army ants marching (quite literally) away from our house down the driveway like a living stream.  We fumigated the foundation soon thereafter – army ants are not to be trifled with.  Unattended beverages with sugar or sweet crumbs are major attractions for the smaller ants.  They build large nests around the house foundation and find entry points into the dwelling through the tiniest of openings.  It’s quite a sight seeing a mass of ants attacking a snack you’ve left somewhere you thought would have been off limits – like around your den.

There are also the mosquitoes.  In this part of the world, mosquitoes can be deadly.  Many carry malaria and can leave one ill or dead if bitten.  Where I live in Lusaka it’s generally malaria-free because of the high altitude (over 4,000 feet), but heading to the countryside is a different story.  There are four strains of malaria to contend with — if you get malaria once, you’re not immune to getting it again.  Anti-malaria pills are recommended if you visit Zambia, but they don’t prevent malaria and only help you stay alive if you fall ill.  I’ve been told that malaria-carrying mosquitoes are of a particular variety.  Zambia’s mosquitoes are diverse.  Some are small and silent and others are slow and noisy, and I have yet to figure out which ones carry malaria.  Better to wear mosquito repellent and sleep under mosquito nets treated with repellent.  We’ve been thankful the past few months to live relatively mosquito-free, but the little critters have started coming out again.

After the first rain of the season, all the creepy crawlies that lay dormant during the dry season come to life.  The winged termites are the first to emerge; they breed in such large quantities that it is a bit like a sooty blizzard when they come out.  As they shed their wings and head into the ground, they leave behind piles of wings akin to small snow drifts.  Out come the brooms to sweep them up.

The termites build mounds that can grow incredibly large.  I once saw abandoned termite mounds in northwestern Zambia as tall as a two-story building – with trees growing on top of them!  I’ve been told that termites keep building their mounds until they can no longer sustain the brood, and then they disperse in search of new homes.  There are few large termite mounds in Lusaka because urbanization has limited the amount of foliage termites consume.

Finally, once a year the caterpillars emerge.  Before they become butterflies, many Zambians will collect and use them in a local dish called ifishimu.  Ifishimu, or cooked caterpillar and onion salad, is an acquired taste.

I tried some and did not like it.  I will not try the termite, another common Zambian dish.  I’d much rather eat crocodile or snake, two animals most Zambians will not eat.

In the United States, “little critters” are best known as a children’s chewable vitamin brand.  In Africa, this has an entirely different meaning.  Africa’s “little critters” refer to the insects that invade your home looking for sustenance.  They could be mosquitoes looking for blood, perhaps leaving behind malaria, or different types of spiders, the most common of which in Lusaka, are the “flattie” spiders so named because of their flat bodies (they can grow quite large with a leg span of up to several inches).

Some are flying termites, gnats, putsi flies, or varied types of cockroaches.  Most often, they are ants of many varieties, shapes and sizes ranging from tiny sugar ants to large army ants.

Many African homes are quite porous and make it easy for little critters to enter at will.  Whether it’s the doors with gaps that leave ample room for entry or the holes in the concrete walls meant for ventilation but more often act as sieves, homes here are built with little thought given to keeping out the creepy crawlies that find them tantalizing targets.  Occupants usually learn to live with them unless the “little critters” invade en masse or appear to be a physical threat.  The mandibles of a large ant leave no doubt that one bite would hurt immensely.

We’ve learned to live with the “little critters” for the most part, except when they take a liking to our kitchen or living quarters.  When a stream of sugar ants attacks a morsel left on the kitchen counter, it’s time to dispatch them.  When a spider preys too close to the bed, it meets a quick demise.

Spraying poison inside the home is tricky business, and using clothes or paper towels to wipe them out is impractical when they come in great numbers.  Thus, we usually put with them unless they cross our comfort threshold.  “Little critters” is one of the many aspects of life in Africa that makes living here an adventure.

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India

India. The word evokes many images. A land of more than one billion people reaching from the vast Indian Ocean to the stunning Himalayas, India is awash in unparalleled color and beauty. Few locales in the world match its stimulating effect on the five senses — the exotic sights, a cacophony of sound, and exotic smells, tastes, and sensations of a vibrant place. The essence of “India” goes far beyond its exotic, and at times mystical, reputation. Its reality is far more complex that its ecologically diverse geography with dry deserts, towering peaks, and subtropical lowlands; ancient history spanning centuries of kingdoms and modern incarnation; and cultural and spiritual enclaves offer the casual eye at first glance. India is a country in the midst of change that honors its rich heritage as it establishes itself as one of the most dynamic and fastest-growing economies in the world. Millions of tourists journey to India each year to see it for themselves, drawn by the lure of Taj Mahal in Agra, the Golden Triangle, the Land of Kings, Rajasthan, Kerala, and elsewhere. Most soon discover that India is so much more than that. It is a home to countless languages, religions, and traditions — even gods. It’s impossible to absorb it all in just one visit. One must take a pilgrimage or a life-changing experience to begin to understand what India personally means.

 

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キリマンジャロ男が山に求めたもの(上) (世界冒険シリーズ)

キリマンジャロ男が山に求めたもの(上) (世界冒険シリーズ)
M・G・エドワーズ (著), 小澤 勉 (監修), 内田寿美 (翻訳)

商品の説明

内容紹介

Kilimanjaro Japanese Front Cover (medium)世界冒険シリーズ第一弾『Kilimanjaro: One Man’s Quest to Go Over the Hill』には、私自身がアフリカ最高峰キリマンジャロへ挑戦した記録が記されています。当事40歳だった私は、中年の危機に直面していました。そこで、生活を一新するためにキリマンジャロへの挑戦を決意しました。本書は中年になった私が挑戦したキリマンジャロ制覇までの道のりとその他の様々な試練を乗り越えた現実の記録です。当事、私は外交官としての仕事に行き詰まり、迷いとストレスを感じる日々を過ごしていました。そして2010年、新しい生活へ向かって飛び立つために、アフリカ最高峰であるキリマンジャロに挑戦することを決心しました。中年になってから、長年勤めた外交官を辞めて自分の夢を追いかけることには大きなためらいがあります。私にとっては巨大な挑戦であるキリマンジャロを制覇することができたら、著作業という自分の夢に向かって進んでいく不屈の精神を養えるに違いない。私はそう信じていました。2010の終わりに大いなる希望を抱いてスタートした登山ですが、すぐにキリマンジャロへ登ることがいかに困難であるかという現実に直面しました。「全ての人のエベレスト」として知られているこの山の山頂までの道のりは、これまで私が乗り越えてきた至難と比べ物にならないほど、想像を絶する試練でした。頂上に達するどころか、生き延びるために奮闘しなくてはならなかったのです。精神的かつ肉体的な強靭さを必要とするキリマンジャロ登山は、私の人生の最大の挑戦でした。この記録は、中年になったと感じ、困難に直面することがあっても生活を変える勇気が必要な人たちに是非読んでいただきたいと思っています。また、世界的に高い山々に登山しようと考えているアマチュア登山家達の参考にもなるはずです。キリマンジャロ登山への計画をじっくりと練ってから挑戦した私自身の考察やアドバイスが一杯詰っている本書は、キリマンジャロに登ろうと考えている読者に実行に踏み出す勇気を与え、様々な困難を乗り越えて頂上に達する助けになるでしょう。『Kilimanjaro: One Man’s Quest to Go Over the Hill』は2012年グローバル電子書籍賞佳作賞を受賞しました。私自身が登った登山路の写真も60枚以上掲載されています。

著者について

ファンタジー、スリラー、トラベル・ライター。 2012年3月に『Kilimanjaro: One Man’s Quest to Go Over the Hill』を出版。著者の「世界冒険シリーズ」第一弾である本書には著者がアフリカ最高峰キリマンジャロの登山に挑戦した記録が記されている。2011年には様々なジャンルの短編を編纂した『Real Dreams: Thirty Years of Short Stories』を出版。現在は心理スリラーと『世界冒険シリーズ』第二弾を執筆中。アイダホ大学で学士号を取得。ワシントン大学では中国研究とビジネス経営で修士号を取得。数年間、民間企業で働いた後、2004年にアメリカ合衆国国務省に入省。パラグアイ、韓国、ザンビアのアメリカ大使館で外交官として勤務する。2011年、執筆に専念するために国務省を退職。現在は妻ジング、息子アレックスと共にタイのバンコクに在住。家族で世界中を旅行した記録は、評判のトラベル・ブログ『World Adventurers』に記されている。

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キリマンジャロ男が山に求めたもの(上) (世界冒険シリーズ)
M・G・エドワーズ (著), 小澤 勉 (監修), 内田寿美 (翻訳)

アマゾン(Amazon.co.jp)

オンデマンド (ペーパーバック)
    ¥ 1,210

2011_01_01 Kilimanjaro Mike IMG_8366
M・G・エドワーズ (著)