This is the first post in a series on Paraguay’s Chaco region about its largest town, Filadelfia. The others will feature articles about the region and its Mennonite and indigenous communities. Enjoy photos and stories from one of Paraguay’s most intriguing places.

A visit to the Chaco, the remote western half of Paraguay located in the heart of South America, is like a trip back in time. It truly is the “Wild West” of South America. From the timeworn, semiarid terrain to the eclectic mix of Germanic, Spanish, and indigenous influences, the Chaco is out of this world.

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (1)

The heartbeat of the Chaco is in Filadelfia, the capital of Boquerón Province, about five hours northwest of Paraguay’s capital, Asunción. It lies just off the Trans-Chaco Highway headed toward Santa Cruz, Bolivia. The town of 10,000 was founded in the 1930s by Russian Mennonites of Germanic descent who emigrated from the former Soviet Union to avoid persecution under Stalinism. Mennonite influence dominates the town with the prevalence of Plattdeutsch, a Low German dialect, blond-hair and blue-eyed residents, and delicious German cuisine and pastries.

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (2)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (3)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (4)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (5)

In 2008, we visited Filadelfia and stayed in one of just two hotels in town at the time, a decent place with a so-so German-style buffet. Along the main street, Avenida Hindenburg, we stopped to see the monuments that commemorated the city’s 25th, 50th and 75th anniversaries and the Mennonite pioneers.

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (7)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (8)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (9)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (6)

We stopped to explore the town square, one of the nicer ones I’ve seen in Paraguay. The manicured lawn and gardens were a beautiful escape from the gritty, industrial atmosphere of the rest of the town. The aptly-named bottle trees (ceiba insignis; in Spanish, borrachos) stood like giant guardians. The untrained ear might have mistaken the Mennonite school next door for one in Germany were it not for the dry, windswept Chaco landscape on campus.

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (10)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (11)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (12)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (13)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (14)

We toured the Jakob Unger Museum adjacent to the town square. Named after a local specimen collector, the museum was filled with virtually every kind of animal found in the Paraguayan Chaco. It also housed a mish-mash of Mennonite and indigenous artifacts from Filadelfia’s past. Our young son enjoyed learning about armadillos, rheas, and cheetahs — up close and personal. We played a game of “which animal can hurt you” to help him learn respect for wildlife.

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (15)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (16)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (17)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (18)

Filadelfia was a beehive of activity when we visited. The town’s epicenter was a small strip mall that catered to the Mennonite community with a large German-style supermarket and boutique stores selling everything from wood furniture to ceramics. Smaller commercial enterprises on the outskirts of town served the local indigenous population and migrant workers, primarily “Brasiguayos,” or Brazilians who emigrated to Paraguay. Around town were numerous plants and factories, predominantly Mennonite owned and operated, that processed agriculture products from milk to honey. The ice cream was some of the most delicious I’d ever tasted.

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (19)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (20)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (21)

The region is Paraguay’s dairy heartland, but all this productivity has come at a cost. The Chaco is very dry, with frequent droughts and water management issues exacerbated by large farms that need irrigation. Although Filadelfia and surrounding communities such as Loma Plata and Kolonia Neuland use power from the Itaipu Dam, one of the world’s largest dams located in eastern Paraguay, coal and wood were still widely used as fuel when we visited. As a result, clear cutting to increase pasture lands for cattle and for fuel has contributed to deforestation in the area.

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (22)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (23)

Those who live in the harsh climate of the Chaco work hard to make the desert bloom, but they also find time to relax, have fun, and enjoy life. Filadelfia has several Mennonite churches, and many indigenous and Brasiguayos are Catholic. Soccer (fútbol) is a passion for many locals, as it is throughout Paraguay, and each year at the end of September, the Trans-Chaco Rally passes through town. Visiting Filadelfia during the rally is arguably the best time to go, but be sure to book your hotel room early! There aren’t many.

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (25)

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia (24)

Stay tuned for more exciting posts about Paraguay and the Chaco!

2008_08_31 Paraguay Filadelfia

This is an update with photos of an earlier post about the Paraguayan Chaco. Click here to read the original post.

Map picture


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Books by MG EdwardsMG Edwards is a writer of books and stories in the thriller and science fiction-fantasy genres. He also writes travel adventures and children’s books. A former U.S. diplomat, he served in South Korea, Paraguay, and Zambia before leaving the Foreign Service to write full time.

Edwards is author of six books. His memoir, Kilimanjaro: One Man’s Quest to Go Over the Hill, was finalist for the Book of the Year Award and the Global eBook Award. He has published four children’s picture books in the World Adventurers for Kids Series: Alexander the Salamander; Ellie the Elephant; Zoe the Zebra; and a collection featuring all three stories. His book Real Dreams: Thirty Years of Short Stories is an anthology of 15 short stories.

Edwards lives in Taipei, Taiwan with his family. He has also lived in Austria, Singapore and Thailand. For more books or stories by M.G. Edwards, visit his web site at or contact him by e-mail at or on Twitter @m_g_edwards.

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  1. July 20, 2012    

    Interesting… the first couple of pics resemble the Wild, Wild West. The trees are funky/cool. Love’em! And your son is very cute 🙂

    • mgedwards's Gravatar mgedwards
      July 22, 2012    

      Thanks! It gets stranger and stranger. Stay tuned for more posts about the Chaco! I know, kids grow up so fast. I wish I could turn back the clock to when he was still 3 years old.

  2. July 21, 2012    

    Really interesting! I had no idea there were Mennonites in Paraguay. Thanks for posting.

    • mgedwards's Gravatar mgedwards
      July 22, 2012    

      Thanks, glad you liked it! Thanks too for stopping by. Oh, yes, there are more than 5,000 in Fernheim Colony alone. Perhaps 20,000 or more throughout the Chaco. I’m writing a post now about the Mennonites in the Chaco I plan to publish next week. Stay tuned!

  3. Karin's Gravatar Karin
    January 24, 2013    

    we are planning a trip to filadelfia in 2013, was born there, and left in ’69, can hardly wait to see there any thing we should know regarding traveling from asuncion?

    • mgedwards's Gravatar mgedwards
      January 25, 2013    

      Hi Karin, thanks for visiting my blog. Enjoy your trip back to Filadelfia. You’ll probably feel like it’s changed in some ways but still the same in others. It felt like a place frozen in time. The highway from Asuncion to Filadelfia is paved and easy to drive in a 2-wheel drive car — about five hours. But watch out for potholes. Somewhere around Pozo Colorado you’re bound to run into some, and they can get big. Best to drive during the day and keep the speeds down to avoid them. They come up fast. Enjoy your trip! If you have a chance, post a comment and let me know what you thought of it. Cheers, Mike

      • Karin's Gravatar Karin
        January 25, 2013    

        Thanks Mike,,though i made a mistake..planning the trip for 2014, during the coolest months, not sure whether to go June,July,or August any suggestion on that..only because we dont want to go during the worst of the heat. And absolutely i will let you know how it went..we also are planning a week in Venezuela after 3 weeks in Paraguay also planning a trip to the Iguazu Falls, not sure of how we should travel to them, whether to take a tour bus or by car, knowing it will be at least a 10 hour drive. Any suggestions for us? And thanks again for your response..oh ya we are traveling from B.C. Canada.

  1. The Paraguayan Chaco « World Adventurers on July 26, 2012 at 12:12 am
  2. The Mennonites of Paraguay « World Adventurers on July 29, 2012 at 3:43 pm
  3. Indigenous of the Paraguayan Chaco « World Adventurers on August 8, 2012 at 5:01 pm

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